Thursday, September 9, 2010

8/30 Port aux Basques to Rose Blanche


Ann writes:

Scott's Cove Tourist Mall
Ann writes:

Had an ok breakfast at the Harbourview Restaurant before walking "downtown" to provision at Coleman's grocery which was surprisingly well-stocked. They also let us take our full grocery cart to the dock. We sometimes have difficulty understanding the Neufie accent- some speak in a sort of a brogue.

We left Port aux Basques around 10:45 and raised the mainsail for a downwind run to Rose Blanche; the wind died. Jon had to start up the engine, but the wind was soon back gusting up to 25 kts. Anomaly responded with 8.9 knots; we really should have reefed as it was a bit of a struggle getting the main back down. We're a bit out of practice with the winds being so light up until today.
View of Rose Blanche Lighthouse on approach

I was relieved to get way up into Rose Blanche Harbor. We ended up on the offloading dock which we were told was ok because the next fishing season (for cod) doesn't open until next week (9/1). We were immediately offered assistance from an odd fellow "Morgan" who turned out to be a bit of a hustler. He drove his truck by several times, radio blasting, asking if he could do something for us. The first time, Jon accepted a ride to the filling station to get fuel, and ended up having to buy him a 6-pack of beer. We refused subsequent offers.

A second group of more reasonable folks lent us some fuel cans and aided with the fueling when Jon had trouble getting them to work without leaking. They were accompanied by a beautiful big Newfoundland dog. I had a nice conversation all about "the Rock" with a native Rose Blanche fellow whose 101 year old father still lives there. I was surprised that he had bought an iPad just 3 weeks after they were released, and now says his next computer will be Apple.

We took the recommended footpath through the picturesque Big Bottom to the Rose Blanche Lighthouse and grounds which have been lovingly restored to working condition. The granite stone lighthouse itself is very interesting with historical markers and antiques, and the paths take you along stunning vistas of the sea accompanied by botanical markers on the native flora. We stood in the seaside gazebo and marveled that we were in Newfoundland.

Back in the main harbor, we ate too much at the very cute Fisherman's Friend where I tried Cod Tongues (very rich and fatty) and Newfoundland Fish Cakes (salted cod with potato and onion). The food, service and decor was excellent.

Jon writes:

Rose Blanche is a post card example of a Newfoundland out port community. Although recently connected by a highway, it historically was accessible only by boat, and the village is built tight around the harbor on the steep-to rocks with many of the houses serviced only by footpath or boardwalk. People wander down to the dock on foot to look or talk and greet you on the paths with "It's a beautiful day!". 

Rose Blanche east arm (click to expand)

Inside the Rose Blanche Lighthouse

'Anomaly' is currently lying Ship Cove, Ramea, Newfoundland, Canada

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