9-5, Earle passes by

Sunday- Still very windy, blowing the clouds into a sunny day.

Ann writes:


Earle was kind of a blow hard; very little rain after last evening, so we were able to get out the bikes again today.  Had a great day beachcombing and picnicing at Deadman's Cove.  So many beautiful multi-coloured stones on the beach.  We also hiked to the top of Gun Hill, which I discovered was blanketed with blueberries.  New slogan for Palmer:

Harbour Breton- Blueberry Capital of the World!

Blueberries!

Recipe:
Made my own version of put in this evening- Bacon stir fried with onions and red peper, add cooked rice and stir in 2 beaten eggs.  Season with salt and red pepper.

Jon writes:

The next day continued to be windy, so we bicycled to Dead Man's Cove and then hiked to the "look off" at the top of Gun Hill. 

Dead Man's Cove

Panorama of the U shaped Harbor Breton (click to expand)

Trail and stairs up the ridge to Gun Hill look off

Who needs a Stairmaster when you have Gun Hill - a small sampling of the several hundred stairs

Ann with a bunch of blueberries - the ones she hasn't already eaten

'Anomaly' is currently lying Baddeck Harbor, Nova Scotia

9/4- Waiting for Earle

Saturday: Sun, fog, and tropical storm

Ann  writes:

Darn, those Herring Gulls can really make a ruckus. Almost continuous squawking from first light, but I think Jon could sleep through a train wreck. The skies were sunny when I first got up, then more grey drizzle closed in.

Herring Gulls at the Helm

Palmer picked us up about 11, drove us back to his house and gave us the keys to his truck so we could do laundry and grocery shopping. The coin-op laundry is at the RV park; we did 3 loads but left many pieces damp since we've had trouble with dryer shrinkage. That may not have been a good idea with the high humidity. In between loads, we tried Mollie Browns and their Big Mary fried chicken sandwiches and taters or fries, again, very good but surprisingly expensive for fast food.

After a quick stop at Foodland, we returned Palmer's truck. We visited a house with fantastic sculptures in the yard while waiting for him to drive us back to the marina.

Harbour Breton Yard Sculptures

By now it was warm and sunny and we chatted for awhile. He suggested we dinghy out to the Salmon farming operation nearby, and we were just about to do that when the wind changed and the fog closed in again. We visited the museum instead and read about Newman's Port which was unexpectedly improved when a ship in 1679 was blown off course by pirates and foul weather, and had to shelter in Newfoundland. It's been aged in Newfoundland by the Newman company ever since.

Click here for a nice blurb on the history of Harbour Breton.

We hung out in the Funship Internet cafe and I got the recipe for the tea biscuits. They have a cookbook which I plan to take a look at tomorrow.

There were 2 weddings today and we could hear honking horns all over town. Rain started in earnest just past 6:30 pm. Finished off the first jar of spaghetti sauce for dinner.


Jon writes:

Meanwhile, Earl, though downgraded to a tropical storm, was scheduled to pass through that night. We ran some extra lines and cleaned up the decks, then hung on. The wind blew from the southwest right down the harbor and broadside into the boat rather than the southeast that was predicted, but in spite of a heavy strain on the anchorages of the floating dock, no damage was done. I added another bow line in the middle of the night because of the alarming creaking coming from the float. In the morning the instruments showed a peak gust of 36 knots (41 mph) and sustained winds of 30.

Tied to the float which we are assured is firmly anchored....

'Anomaly' is currently lying Baddeck Harbor, Nova Scotia

9/3- Harbour Breton

Friday- a nice sunny day.

Ann writes:

Slept in- up too late on computer last night, and the town had a planned power outage until 11 am. (That means an interruption in chlorination and a boil order- sorry for the inconvenience!) The owner of fishing boat The Other Girl came by and talked up a storm about fishing and boats. One season involves whelks or snails as they call them which apparently are slimy but sold to the Koreans.

Got out the bicycles and rode over to the marina, but it was locked; the lower building is a museum, and the curator knew nothing about the marina. The upper floor is the Funship Internet Cafe with yummy tea biscuits and many PC's where we finally got reconnected for a while. Then we rode out the gravel road to the Rocky Point Lighthouse, the Light is much shorter than I would have thought. We returned by way of a gravelly beach where I found a nice sea urchin shell.

Rocky Point Lighthouse is surprisingly short.

We rode on into the main area of town and the Foodland shopping center. Ladies there recommended Scott's restaurant, which was better than average fish 'n chips We've mostly seen deep-fried food in Newfoundland- it tastes pretty good going down, but then it just sits it your stomach like a stone. And it's fairly expensive- $20-25 for lunch.

Rode out to Deadman's Cove RV park and beach on the way back. A family had the inviting crescent shaped beach all to themselves. The RV park has 10 spots surrounded by densely packed low-growing conifers and grassy banks. There are many pools and ponds and boggy ground in some places. I was hoping to see a moose, but hunting season has opened (only bows right now) and they seem to know to stay away. The 6 originally introduced mouse have become fairly numerous just inland and referred to by locals as Newfoundland Spead Bumps.

Deadman's Cove- fortunately, nothing but urchin shells washed up after Tropical Storm Earle passed through (photo taken 9/4)

Finally returned to the boat, and after another hour of beautiful sun, the temperature dropped sharply as the fog rolled in, wet and drizzly. We popped up to the Save More for some meat to stir fry, but the beef had a funny taste. Part-way thru dinner, the town Superintendent, Palmer Strowbridge, dropped by and suggested we'd be more comfortable over in the marina. They'd moved some boats around for us, so Jon went over in his truck to see. We moved over and they kept the gate unlocked for us. Palmer would like to encourage more tourism and really went out of his way to make us comfy. The internet cafe is right above us now, and we're able to take our own laptops up to connect; unfortuneatly the signal isn't strong enough to work on the boat.


'Anomaly' is currently lying Baddeck Harbor, Nova Scotia

9/2- NewLostLand

Ann writes:


Thursday- Woke up to low fog, the land was gone. Departed at 8 am with 1/4 mile visibility at best. The sun seemed like it would break through, then it would close in again. Not cold like SF fog, however.

Typical Newfoundland Vista- where is the land?

I was surprised that I could go below and read comfortably even though we were rolling a bit. The wind finally picked up and we were able to sail the rest of the way to Harbor Breton. We finally started to see some hazy outlines of land around 3:30 or so. We were docked at the public wharf by 6:45.

I was a bit unsettled that the Southeast wind really blows through this harbor. We passed the marina on the way in and the two piers seem full of small boats; I'm doubtful Anomaly will fit in there. There are mostly private residences around the wharf, but fortunately one bargain grocery store. The main part of town is beyond a low bridge.

I had a nice conversation with the store clerk and he said hurricane Earle is now due to pass more over the west coast and directly over Labrador (La bruhDOOR). Here in Harbour Breton they're expecting winds of only 45 kilometers (24 kts). We bought a few things we probably don't really need, but want to stock up since everything is probably going to be closed SU/MO for Labor Day.


Jon writes:

We made an instrument departure from Ramea, there being only 75 yards or so visibility in heavy fog. This involves navigation by GPS chartplotter, confirmed by radar overlay (because many of the charts of the area are based on surveys in the late 1800's). We had to motor more than half the distance before the wind increased from behind to 8 knots, then sailed to the harbor entrance. Harbor Breton is a long bay running some 8 miles north into the rock of Newfoundland. About a mile in, there is a smaller harbor running southwest, turning around to northeast and in doing so almost completely encircling Gun Hill. The town of Harbor Breton is laid out on both sides of this harbor, with a bridge running between. We spent one night on the public fishing float and explored the town by bicycle. I made enquiries at the town hall about the marina on the other side of the harbor, reputedly available for transient yachts but seeming somewhat full of small powerboats. The receptionist did not seem to know much about it, but later than evening Palmer, the Town Superintendent, came down and suggested that we move to the marina, they had moved moved boats to make space. He offered us a ride to the small RV campground where the only coin op laundry was, and offered us the loan of his truck to do some grocery shopping: all in all, making us feel quite at home!

'Anomaly' is currently lying Baddeck Harbor, Nova Scotia

9/1 - Grand Bruit to Ramea

Wednesday- Light fog gives way to bright sunny skies with puffy clouds.

Ann writes:

We saw some people in Grand Bruit today- a fisherman from La Pool brought 2 electric workers to hook up the crane and bait station for fishing. They said 5 houses still have service. One home, the Parsons which stands apart, is owned by a lady from New York. This little village needs a Rockefeller!

The fisherman told Jon that it had just gotten too difficult for the elderly residents- children had married outsiders from bigger towns and moved on- they had to give it up.

We took one more walk up to the bridge and I counted the cascades in the waterfall as we walked back down. Devilish hard to paint it; I would pick a complex w'fall to paint for my first attempt! The little birds teased me trying to photo them. Maybe a kinglet and some kind of sparrow.

Departed around 10:40, but later we got cell coverage and discovered that Newfoundland is 30 minutes ahead of Atlantic time. We were sailing almost right away; I'll let Jon give the results. It was a pretty approach- a candy stiped Lighthouse greeted us and we slipped past Muddy Harbour with rugged rocks topped with green grasses failrly close to the channel. We were tied up by about 5:30.

Approaching Ramea- Northwest Head Lighthouse

We were happy to see that the Eastern Outfitter is still open. Our cruising guide is 7 years old, so we don't really know what to expect. Many businesses mentioned have been shuttered. I got a recommendation for the Scotsburn Moon Mist icecream which was "to die for" and it was, but not in the way that she meant;-(note to self: my tastebuds are very different than the locals'.)

We paid $2.50 for 30 minutes wireless internet, but it didn't work very well, even inside their building. Jon came back out to join me on the nearby dock and we were witness to a wonderful cultural habit; the men of the town started appearing and began to converse by the boat ramp on this beautiful evening. It was wonderful to hear them talk; when they spoke to each other we could barely comprehend what they were saying. They could clean it up a bit when they spoke to us. One fellow has 10 children, another 5, but they've all moved away and this town is dying too.

Our "grilling steaks" turned out great despite Jon's wanting to redesign the BBQ; my smashed potatoes were better too.

Jon writes:

We bid goodbye to Grand Bruit and, with an eye on the approaching hurricane Earl, decided to move east more rapidly to get out of his projected path. After about an hour motoring enough wind filled in from the southwest to shut the motor off and we were able to sail for about 5 hours, the wind finally dying to near nothing about 8 miles out of Ramea.

Ship Cove, Ramea

The islands of Ramea lie about 5 miles off of the south coast of Newfoundland, the two main islands have a narrow channel between them with two harbors. The larger one is Ship Cove, around which the town is built. They have refurbished the fish processing plant wharf for the use of transient boats, but the ruins of the plant are still there and you wind through them on the short walk into the village. In the center of town we found Eastern Outfitters, a kayak renting, lunch counter, youth hostile, and internet cafe combined into one building. Like everywhere in Newfoundland, everyone is as friendly as could be. And like everywhere else in Newfoundland, the food is all deep fried.

The next morning we left early for the 65 mile run to Harbor Breton, where I proposed to sit out the passage of Earl.

'Anomaly' is currently lying Ship Cove, Ramea, Newfoundland

8/31- If There's a Grand Bruit in Newfoundland, Does Anybody Hear?

Tuesday- Grey skies, calm winds and rain this morning.

Ann writes:

Jon went to buy some milk and said he had some work to do, but before I knew it, he started the engine and was pulling out of the harbor in the pouring rain. By the time I got all my gear on it had pretty much stopped. We were out of Rose Blanche by 11:45.

A whale surfaced by the boat a couple times before it fell back as we motored on. We had lunch underway and reached our waypoint around 2:30. Then Jon turned us in to what looked like a potentially rocky approach.

We encountered an enchanting scene. A wide waterfall cascades into the center of the harbor which is surrounded by colorful cottages on rocky ledges. A church perches on the highest point above the town. A cemetery of mostly white marble faced the sea. But there was nothing stirring, save a little otter on the rocks.

The source of the Grand Bruit (Great Noise)

We tied up at the floating dock and looked for signs of life. I saw some gloves drying on a line, but there were no boats. Closer inspection showed that many homes are padlocked and boarded up; most had their electrical service disconnected even tho' they looked fully furnished and had satellite dishes still attached. Lace curtains hang in the windows; the church tree has christmas lights on it.

But the church registry told the story. The town, mostly descendants of the Billards, last signed the book for the last service on June 11, 2010. The last ferry left shortly thereafter, and everyone said a sad goodbye. It made me sad to the point of tears. And angry. We'd heard about the government moving outport residents to more central locations, but the cruising guide reported this was a thriving little village just 7 years ago. They had electrical service, a store, a medical center, helicopter pad, even public internet. What had made them leave such an idyllic spot.

We walked all over town: signed the church guest book, walked in amongst the cottages, visited the cemetary with bright plastic flowers decorating many graves. We walked over lush, soft boggy ground to breathtaking views of the sea. We followed the trails to the serene and rugged pools above the waterfall. It looked like an ideal spot for camping, backpacking, or an artist's commune, but there is NO ONE HERE.

Newfoundland tundra- soft and boggy

Later, the stars were bright with only the flashing buoy and ferry dock lights to interrupt the absolute darkness. I looked for a shooting star to breathe life into the town again, but there were none.




















Jon writes:

Grand Bruit was described in the 2003 cruising guide we carried as another picturesque out port village like Rose Blanche, and we proceeded east to find it, motoring the 19 miles in light wind and entered the harbor.

But as Ann said, it is sadly deserted. 

'Anomaly' at Grand Bruit

In the morning we awoke to find three men on the wharf. They had come from La Poile, two power linesmen and a fisherman to transport them, to hook electric power back to the bait depot and fish unloading boom on the wharf. I talked for a while to the fisherman and he recalled the names of all of the men shown in some postcards left behind in one of the sheds. He lived in La Poile, another small out port 10 miles distant, and said he would never leave. Good for him. 

Grand Bruit harbor from the top of the falls (click to expand)

'Anomaly' is currently lying Ship Cove, Ramea, Newfoundland

8/30 Port aux Basques to Rose Blanche

Monday,

Ann writes:

Scott's Cove Tourist Mall

Ann writes:

Had an ok breakfast at the Harbourview Restaurant before walking "downtown" to provision at Coleman's grocery which was surprisingly well-stocked. They also let us take our full grocery cart to the dock. We sometimes have difficulty understanding the Neufie accent- some speak in a sort of a brogue.

We left Port aux Basques around 10:45 and raised the mainsail for a downwind run to Rose Blanche; the wind died. Jon had to start up the engine, but the wind was soon back gusting up to 25 kts. Anomaly responded with 8.9 knots; we really should have reefed as it was a bit of a struggle getting the main back down. We're a bit out of practice with the winds being so light up until today.

View of Rose Blanche Lighthouse on approach

I was relieved to get way up into Rose Blanche Harbor. We ended up on the offloading dock which we were told was ok because the next fishing season (for cod) doesn't open until next week (9/1). We were immediately offered assistance from an odd fellow "Morgan" who turned out to be a bit of a hustler. He drove his truck by several times, radio blasting, asking if he could do something for us. The first time, Jon accepted a ride to the filling station to get fuel, and ended up having to buy him a 6-pack of beer. We refused subsequent offers.

A second group of more reasonable folks lent us some fuel cans and aided with the fueling when Jon had trouble getting them to work without leaking. They were accompanied by a beautiful big Newfoundland dog. I had a nice conversation all about "the Rock" with a native Rose Blanche fellow whose 101 year old father still lives there. I was surprised that he had bought an iPad just 3 weeks after they were released, and now says his next computer will be Apple.

We took the recommended footpath through the picturesque Big Bottom to the Rose Blanche Lighthouse and grounds which have been lovingly restored to working condition. The granite stone lighthouse itself is very interesting with historical markers and antiques, and the paths take you along stunning vistas of the sea accompanied by botanical markers on the native flora. We stood in the seaside gazebo and marveled that we were in Newfoundland.

Back in the main harbor, we ate too much at the very cute Fisherman's Friend where I tried Cod Tongues (very rich and fatty) and Newfoundland Fish Cakes (salted cod with potato and onion). The food, service and decor was excellent.

Jon writes:

Rose Blanche is a post card example of a Newfoundland out port community. Although recently connected by a highway, it historically was accessible only by boat, and the village is built tight around the harbor on the steep-to rocks with many of the houses serviced only by footpath or boardwalk. People wander down to the dock on foot to look or talk and greet you on the paths with "It's a beautiful day!". 

Rose Blanche east arm (click to expand)

Inside the Rose Blanche Lighthouse

'Anomaly' is currently lying Ship Cove, Ramea, Newfoundland, Canada